Marika Barbie + [UK fashion designers]

A Historical Collection by Griffin

I just recent this lengthy yet exciting press release from Griffin. Especially for history buffs like me, the release is particularly interesting as it narrates the historical context and origins of each garment:

Inspiration & Colour Range

We are not a simple one-dimensional brand, but a design studio producing clothing that fly’s under the radar. Combining the ultimate Griffin mix of urban clothing designed from our creative hub in the country, positively insular in our ideas, yet global in our free thinking approach we take inspiration from our travels and lifestyle, this autumn/winter 2016 collection results in an interesting mix of technology meets military.

With an appreciation for original military garments this season, we turn our attention to the American military uniforms of the 50’s and 60’s, pulling snorkel jackets and smock jackets from the extensive Griffin archive and researching classic movies such as the 1968 film “Ice Station Zebra” staring Rock Hudson (nothing quite like an old military film).

This season is all about a respect for local sourcing, traditional skills, quality and our heritage taking all these elements and developing alongside new technology and making them relevant and functional to today’s lifestyle whilst aspiring towards a sustainability future.

Core Items

Jackets

As the world reflects, we have taken the time to look back at our heritage, spending many hours rooting through our extensive archive to produce a collection that represents our original style whilst continuing to push the Griffin mix. Mixing high technology with traditional skills we have developed a style we became famed for in the mid 90’s, the Bareskin.

The ‘Technical Bareskin’ development started four years ago but only now we have access to the technology to achieve the garment we wanted.

The ‘Reversible Bareskin’ is a style taken from the U.S. Military Parka, a fantastic shape and Griffin Military favourite. Lengthened and finished with a true parka style fishtail hem, this bareskin has had a little volume added to the a-line silhouette adding a great swing to the back of the coat.

The ‘Dartmouth jacket’ is a short jacket designed with front bellow pockets, which have been bonded to give a modern take on the vintage which was traditionally re-enforced and an example of the new technology applied to the making of this garment. This jacket is fully reversible and features a limited run of Belgium Desert Camo on the outside, the lining inside is in black and white wool from Woolrich and manufactured in the USA since 1830. Finished with functional reversible sleeve tabs, a detail that came from an original reversible 1950’s snow smock, keeping it true to it roots the engineered hood has real fur but using fur that is off cuts and patch worked back together. This style has come from an idea that the military mainly used cotton’s not manmade fabrics, the wool is warm and the cotton is shower-proof and fully biodegradable.

The ‘Hope Cove Smock’ is a beautiful, simplistic, silhouette inspired by a U.S. Military 50’s smock coat. Its made in a classic black single layer fabric, as well as two Woolrich option. This jacket is incredibly versatile and works well as a jacket or a sweat. It has adjusters on the cuffs and two pockets on the front; the neckline is laced with an adjustable hood.

The ‘Technical Softshell’ jacket has a slim silhouette using softshell fabric combined with the traditional Woolrich red & black check. Its character is clean, modern and functional. The shape is ergonomically designed for plenty of movement with an off centre zip, featuring engineered sleeves with seams piped in camo. The hood is sculptured with piping details and features a rounded nose piece for smog protection.

As the Griffin farm adopts its first Wensleydale sheep for the Griffin farm. To coincide we have developed a ‘Parka Sheepskin’ with a local sheepskin tanner and manufacturer based in Somerset, England. The pattern was developed by Griffin in Italy and has a signature sleeve detail and a swing to the back of the coat creating a great shape. The coat also has a sculptured hood with high neck with a front riri zip, and two angled zip pockets on the front. The coat is a true Parka with a fishtail back. This unique garment is a limited edition product and available in two colour ways in both a full length and shorter version.

Trousers

The ‘Thai Pant’ is a style we introduced 10 years ago, it sold out immediately but was never reproduced, now 10 years on from its first introduction we thought it was the perfect time to develop this great silhouette. This season is a unique cross between a snow pant and a Thai trouser, a lot of room in the seat, with a low slung crotch and gusset. The trouser has a banana seam detail running down the front of the leg for shaping and darted at the back to create a sculptured leg.

The ‘USMC trouser’ is a style we have developed for a number of years and after a series of requests from customers and buyers we are reintroducing the pant. First developed from a 1945 boiler suit the USMC trouser is a wide leg pant with a low slung crotch. Fitted with large combat pockets and adjustable tabs at the hem these trousers offer a really comfortable fit. As a more commercial alternative the ‘Hanoi Pant’ is the sister style to this pant, designed with a slightly raised crotch and slimmer leg, this style is also available in a range of colours in both cotton and chunky corduroy.

The ‘Archback trouser’ is an iconic Griffin style; it was originally developed from a vintage climbing trouser. With ergonomically designed legs and darted knees the fit is wide but fitted with a low slung crotch. The zipped arch back panel is of course it’s most distinctive detail and a feature we can only achieve due to the flexibility of our great Italian factory. Traditionally a coat manufacturer, our factory has the ability to be more creative in the make than a traditional trouser manufacturer, using the finishes and detailing found in outerwear.

The ‘Banana trouser’ is slim fitting trouser with a four panel leg design plus a seam at the back of the knee which infuses the pant with a great bit of attitude and a great sculptural shape.

Collaborations

For Autumn/Winter 10 we have teamed up with world famous American fabric mill, Woolrich. Based in Pennsylvania, U.S.A. we were passionate about working with a fabric manufacturer that was rich in American heritage to fit with our U.S. military inspired collection. Wool was a fabric we wanted to work with for its traditional finish and great quality and have chosen Woolrich’s signature Red & Black check which can be found across a range of styles from the autumn/winter 10 collection.

This season we have once again teamed up with renowned fabric Mill, British Millerain. Based in Lancashire the mill has been providing waxed cottons and canvases for workwear to the military for 130 years. Having worked with the company a number of seasons ago making a canvas cover for my Land Rover and printing a tree camouflage we return to the company for their reputation for traditional military fabrics for the highest quality dry wax cottons. These fabrics are hard wearing yet lightweight, they are waterproof without carrying a heavy wax coating and this season can be found featured on our Reversible Bareskin Coat.

Our collaboration with Manchester based Baracuta continues this season. The brand that recently collaborated with Oasis was established in the 1930’s and was recognised for the distinctive Fraser tartan check. This season we have combined both key fabrics within our collection, the Woolrich red and black check with the Dry wax British Millerain fabric within the G9 silhouette in a signature Harrington cut made famous by the likes of Steve McQueen and Oasis. The Griffin X Baracuta range continues to be manufactured in England and is a Limited Edition product.

We have teamed up with Woolistic sportswear to design a collaborative cycling jersey after a request from our cyclist customers. Swiss-based knitwear company, Woolistic, have been designing high quality merino cycling jerseys for just 10 years, but in this short time having gained an international reputation for the quality and performance of their jerseys. We have mixed the heritage Swiss jersey colours into a unique piece crossing over the worlds of both fashion and sport. The back pocket features the Woolistic logo and Griffin heart, the silhouette is a classic slim silhouette built for performance and available in a long sleeve option for Autumn/Winter in either cream or black.

This season we have succeeded in finding a well established English shirt maker. Based in Kent, England, Rayner and Sturges have been manufacturing shirts for almost a hundred years and currently supply a number of Saville Row tailors and high-end designers. We have combined the great quality of the English manufacturing with some of Italy’s finest shirting fabrics from the famous mill Albini, to bring the ultimate quality shirt in an array of contrasting and exciting designs.


Manufacturing

Since the label began over 15 years ago we have been manufacturing the collection in the best Italian factories. Having trained in Italy, Jeff continues to support Italian manufacturing; this is because of the quality and skills of the factories and fabric mills. Based in the valleys of the Alps, the factory and its employees carry a passion that is very Italian they are great at what they do, and proud of the garments they produce. As well as the Griffin brand the factory also manufactures many luxury brands including Dries Van Notten, Missoni, Dior and Armani.

Where possible, we maximise the skills available within the UK, new this season we are working with Fenland Sheepskin, based in Somerset, the local sheepskin manufacturers’ tan and manufacture at their onsite factory. We continue working with factories such as original sportswear brand Gymphlex for our 100% cotton interlock jerseys, and Baracuta for our G9 collaboration jackets, all part of our Made in England range. Although price is important our ethical morals and beliefs come first, which is why we are asking our customers to invest in quality clothing, disposable clothing doesn’t help anyone.

See the entire collection.

Photos Copyright Griffin.